Snorkeling the City of Refuge

                          
   South of Kailua 

The City of Refuge

The North Shore of City of Refuge

   The City of Refuge is an ancient Hawaiian site that is run as a National Monument.  The story goes that under Polynesian Law a miscreant could make is way to the Pu’u Honua, spend a period of penance and return to society.  Mark Twain visited here.  With its old temple foundations and interesting artifacts, its worth a look.  The adjacent bay is a must for snorkelers. 

     Driving south from Kailua, one ascends to about 2500 feet and winds through the funky towns of Kainaliu and Kealakekua.  A mile after the charming Kealakekua Library, you will see an old Chevron Station on your left and on your right will be marked “Old Napoopoo Rd”.  This is clear on your drive guide.  The road winds steeply down ( past an old coffee company with delicious samples) to the village of Napo'opo'o.  One can rent a kayak here for a paddle on the bay.  We turn left and head across the lava rock chaparral  for about five miles to the City of Refuge.

A Swim with the Dolphins is possible at City.

   Just before the the National Park, turn right and pass through a small fishing village with a boat launch.  Park where possible and schlep your stuff to the picnic area.

    From the picnic tables look seaward and slightly to your left.  You should see a number of water oriented folk employing the “Two Step” entry.   On your way out you will note  a large tide pool to your left.  If  you have any doubts, ask if you are at the Two Step entry.   There are other places people use here, but this is the safest.  This is a good spot for gloves, if you have them.

     There are, in fact three flat lava surfaces ideal for getting in and out.  Sit on the middle step and put on your fins, then let a wave wash you into the sea.   This bay is so good that tour companies bring tourists here by van and boat.  You get it for free.

Thompson's Butterflyfish is a great addition to your list.

     We swim north along the shore (to your right) and wind around the cove seaward.  Thompson's Butterflyfish is common just seaward of the corner at the edge of the drop off.  Other good things await you on this north cusp. 

    Just to the right of the Two Step entry  and 30 yards out,  a dive company has written ALOHA on the bottom in cinder blocks in about 30 feet of water.  50 yards straight out from the entry are two lava reefs that reach almost to the surface.  The coral surrounding these islands is beautiful, deep and occasionally harbors something special  Coral death is  a worldwide problem,; the coral at City remains pretty good.  The fish are fantastic!  Black morph of the Longnose, Thompson’s Butterfly, Three Spot Damsel and Potter's Angelfish should be found with any luck.

Palenose Parrotfish at City

.    This is a place where you might swim with the dolphins.  When we arrive, we try to ask someone who looks alert if the dolphins are here, as they spend  time on the bottom resting before returning to the surface.   The dolphins often arrive about 10 AM and may stay several hours.  Look for them 50 to 100 yards out and to the right of Two Step.  I believe the dolphin pod comes about one out of four days to city.  We give them at least until noon to show up.  Remember that harassing marine mammals is against the law, so be respectful.

    Getting out,  you will find that third, submerged step.  Let it boost you up as you coordinate with an incoming swell.  Warm up on the rocks and have a picnic at your table.  Laid back Hawaii! 

Achilles Tang, City of Refuge August 2012

    There is a flock of temporary restrooms at City.  Real restrooms at the national park and showers at the county park in Napoopoo.  We take a 2L of water and let it warm in the sun on the lava while we swim.  On your way home you can stop at the sea wall in Napo'opo'o and look across the bay.

    The obelisk on the far shore  marks the spot where Captain Cook fell.  After reeflecting on the life of this most famous mariner, you can stop for a coffee up the hill.  Another good stop in this area is the Painted Church.  A must see for our tourist visitors, it is located up the newer road that leads south out of City.  Easily found on your drive guide.

    City of Refuge is a great place for looking at the fishes a picnic and just hanging out in a truly beautiful spot.

                                                                                                                                  © Jeffrey Hill 2011

Kona Makai on Dwellable

Snorkeling Kahalu'u

Kahalu’u Bay
    

Snowflake Moray, Kahalu'u December 2011

      Heading south on Alii Drive, one passes a few miles of condos.  As you go south, small houses dominate the makai side of the road. Just north of the Keahou Beach Hotel is is Kahalu’u beach park.  There is a large parking lot and lots of street parking.

    Kahalu'u used to be my number one spot.  Over the years I have become impressed with the down side of Kahalu’u.  The beach here is a coarse grain sand.  Entry is made by following the sand channel in front of the lifeguard.  Sit on the lava or in the shallow water, put on your fins and mask and get washed out through the channel.  Walking out further creates more problems, although that is what most people do.  If it is extremely shallow there may be no choice but to walk painfully through the narrow sand channel, but remember, you can float through in three inches of water.  If you are here during the middle of the day, there may be lots of people clogging this entry, including the Reef Teachers.   Once you are prepared for your entry, do not let them distract you and  do not try another entry.  This is the safe way out.  Keep your mind on the task at hand,  put on your fins and swoop through the forest of legs.  Aloha!

Lagoon Triggerfish, Kahalu'u  December 2012

    There is often a current…sometimes when the waves are larger it is very strong. The lifeguards in recent years have begun admonishing swimmers to stay in safe areas.  They will close the beach if it is unsafe.  Never the less, there are more rescues here than any other place in Hawaii, so exercise common sense if the conditions are too difficult for your ability.  The water remains clear here even when rough conditions have turned other spots cloudy, but be prepared for the current. The city fathers continue to promote Kahalu'u as “the snorkel beach.”  On days when a ship is in, currently Wednesday, the beach may be mobbed.

   Once clear of the entry, I generally turn left (into the current) and swim that direction , toward the Menehune Breakwater,  until it becomes shallow.  I then turn right and swim clockwise around the bay.  If one finds themselves in a difficult current, unable to get back to the initial entry, there is an alternative.  Rescue Beach is just seaward of the smaller kiosk facing Alii Drive. It is a rocky entrance used by surfers that permits you to swim across a current that might otherwise haul your hou'li okole out to sea.  The closer you land to the kiosk, the sandier it is likely to be.
   

Green Sea turtle is common at "K Bay"

       Kahalu'u means “Bay of the Fishes” and the number of species here, both fish and invertebrates, is still very good.  One can never go wrong by taking another swim here.  It is a great spot for small Snowflake and Stout Moray Eels.  Lagoon Triggerfish is more common here.  Some people refer to Kahalu'u as "Turtle Beach"  and it is a great place to see turtles.  It is also a fantastic place to see hermit crabs and other interesting invertebrates.   Many days it is calm, clear and the animals are outstanding.

    The facilities at Kahaluu have been improved.  There are restrooms and showers.  The large kiosk is used for community events like baby luaus and remembrances.    Sadly the National Park Service purchased the Keahou beach Hotel in November 2012.  The park service has closed the grounds, so you can no longer view David Kalekaua's Beach Cottage and the other historical tidbits found through the hotel and its grounds.  C'est Domage.  

Bloody Hermit Crab, Dardanus sanguinocarpus,  Kahalu'u, 12/11

   The little blue church, St. Peter’s,  has survived a hurricane and is charmingly picturesque.  The adjacent heiau offers a great look seaward and a chance to offer thanks to Hualalai and Kanaloa.  The small altar there is ideal for an offering, a lei, a coin or even a cigarette.  I personally use a cup of fresh water.  The view of the bay is tremendous and its a great place for contemplation.  

jeff

Kona Makai on Dwellable

Snorkeling at the Kailua Pier

Kailua Pier and the King Kamehameha Hotel

  The pier in Kailua is just across from the King Kamehameha Hotel at the corner of Alii Drive and Palani.  The pier has been off limits for public parking for years, so one is obligated to park in the free lot behind the shops.   The lot is best accessed from the Kuakini Hwy opposite  the gas station.  there is also an entrance at the triangle on Alii Drive in the village.  From there it is a short walk through the shops down to King Kam.  If you happen to arrive  by cruise ship, this is the place where you disembark from the little orange water taxis.

The Moorish Idol , Paul Allen's Reef, 2011

   There is a short strand of fine sand at the south foot of the pier which provides an easy entry into the sea.  There is very little current.  Frequently in the afternoon you will see some kids flopping about in the shallows.  Because of the easy entry and  swimming conditions, this is a good spot to take novice snorkelers.   If you stay on the shore side of the line of swim buoys., you will be free from  boat traffic.  Beware of  board paddlers, who use this area for learning.

   This is the beginning spot for the Ironman swim and you may well encounter training triatheletes and other fast swimmers by the swim buoys.                                                                                              
 
    Not only is King Kam the place I take novice snorkelers, it is often the place I take myself.  Locals swim here every day.  There is a good variety of fish and coral.  If you swim as far as Hulihee’s Palace, the water deepens to 20 feet and the coral is remarkable.  You can swim as far as the Kona Inn, but the reef shallows unless you swim further out.   There is an outstanding variety of reef fish here.  King Kam provides a safe and memorable fish watching experience for both the novice and the experienced snorkeler.

The Hawaiian Filefish, common on seaward reefs

   For intermediate snorkelers, I also recommend the Paul Allen side of the pier, right in front of the hotel.   

    This is the best place in Kona to take a non- Snorkeler for instruction.  The area is completely protected with minimal current.  You can stand on a benign sand bottom in two feet of water.  It is a bit colder than the open ocean, due to underwater springs, and the water here is frequently cloudy, but the flat sand bottom and no current trump everything else.  This Inner Harbour area has a few fish to whet the novices appetite for more.

   We enter the lagoon right in front of the hotel.  There is soft sand and no current at all.  This is an area where children and non-swimmers can play safely!  The water is a little colder than other spots as it does not circulate freely with the ocean. There are a surprising number of fish in this enclosed area, so an enthusiastic  non-swimmer could have a safe snorkeling experience. 

   Swim out between the heiau and the line of swim buoys, which marks the area used by boat rentals and the parasailer boats. The water will become quite shallow over the rip rap and there may be a bit of a current,   but squeeze through the deeper gap by the last big buoy and you will make it. Once clear, the water is more stable.  I often swim out about 2-300 yards further.  The underwater topography is unrivaled.  Fish species include those of the open shore, like Five Stripe Wrasse.

Paul Allen's Boat with Helicopter.

   As you swim here, over the rolling lava and among the colorful fish, you might notice the estate ashore.  This is the Thurston Estate, now owned by Paul Allen. He also owns the Trail Blazers, the Seahawks and three large yachts.  Over Christmas, he comes to Kona and ferries between his yacht and the estate on a small helicopter.  In his honor, I call this swim "Paul Allen's Reef."  Enjoy.

    This swim is like Kona Makai without the tricky lava rock entry.  If you are a confident swimmer, you can do Paul Allen's Reef on days when Kona Makai would be suicide by snorkeling.  Still, use discretion.

A nice pair of Oval Butterflyfish at King Kam, 2011

    There are restrooms and a shower associated with the building behind the guardhouse at the foot of the pier.  The park at the hotel is of historical interest...the Heiau was actually occupied by King Kamehameha I.  If you are lucky in the afternoon you can watch the high school kids practice canoe paddling.  This is the Hawai’i State Sport. Its really fun to watch clean cut high school age boys and girls participating in such a unique activity.  And its a really serious team sport, too!

    When the cruise ships are in, you can take in some excellent people watching as you dry off from your afternoon swim.  You may find a few species more exotic thatn what yu saw in the water!

    A word of caution.  Homeless kids hang around the pier and may steal your stuff.  I take the minimal amount of my least valuable belongings when I swim at the Kailua pier.  In high surf conditions, the water here becomes very cloudy with the fine sand.

The Kailua Pier.   The King Kam Hotel, heiau and Paul Allen's Reef to the left of the pier.  Note the broad sand beach in front of the hotel and the Inner Harbour for beginner swimmers!  The Ironman swim is on the right  (south side of the pier.  In this view you cannot see the swim buoys on either the Ironman or Paul Allen sides.  For safety, watch for them and keep clear!

Kona Makai on Dwellable

the pier.  Bird's Eye Map courtesy of Bling.

                                                                                           
©  Jeffrey Hill 2011

The Kona Snorkeling Blog

    As I begin this blog, I want to alert my readers that I have been snorkeling the waters of the Kona Coast and elsewhere around the Pacific and the Caribbean for about 30 years.   I am an unabashed promoter for Kona snorkeling and for many years I have written a small handbook of snorkeling sites for my friends.   I will begin the blog with information about my favorite snorkeling spots and the associated beaches.
    I am a reformed birdwatcher.  Watching the fish is so much more intimate and, lucky for you, the fish are far more easily photographed than birds.  But like a good birdwatcher, I believe in using books, keeping lists and seeking the rare sighting singlemindedly.  This will come through in the blog.  I am also a watcher of other critters, including our fellow man, and I hope you will enjoy those observations as well.

Snowflake Moray Eel, Kahaluu 2011

    For now, I am going to leave you with the first delightful paragraph of my snorkeling guide.  I hope it wets your appetite for what is to come.
  Jeff   11/14/2011

           Jeff Hill’s Guide to Snorkeling on the Kona Coast
    The leeward coast of the Big Island of Hawaii,  commonly known as the Kona Coast, is one of my favorite places, both for snorkeling and just hanging out.  Together the Kona and Kohala Coasts are one of the best areas in the world to observe marine wildlife following a shore entry.  This is to say, you enjoy spectacular fish watching with out paying  exorbitant fees for a boat or a guide.  This blog will lead you to a myriad of spots that produce a huge list of marine species year after year.   The entries for these swims will be well described.  Avoid injury!  Do not follow tourists experimenting with alternative entries.  Additionally at these spots you should feel safe from the depredations of your fellow human beings.  I have included comments for areas where special precautions may be advisable.
    The ocean is always deserving of our respect.  Common sense and a knowledge of your limits is essential.  I can not protect you from these inherent risks.  A good mask (one that stays on your face without a strap) and fins are mandatory.  If you need to rent, I recommend Snorkel Bob’s in front of the Royal Polynesian Resort and Huggos.   We now defog with dilute soap (diluted dish detergent or shampoo works great)  A clean mask will fog less…clean with toothpaste and your toothbrush.  Cheap gloves can be helpful in rocky spots.

Pearl Wrasse King Kam south of the pier, November 2011

    I believe in using a field guide and keeping track of what you see.  This way you will learn the names of the fish and the invertebrates and in the process see many more species.  The Ultimate Guide to Hawaiian Reef Fishes  , as is his Hawaii's Sea Creatures, if you would like to identify the invertebrates.  Shore Fishes of Hawaii  by John Randall is also very good.  They can be purchased anywhere around Kailua.  I am including a Fish Checklist with these notes.
    This guide is meant to be used with the drive guide you received when you rented your car.  There are also maps in throw away magazines where ever you go.  These sites are not obscure and you will find them easily.
I trust that my site descriptions are sufficiently explicit and you have many safe and successful outings.
See a fish for me,
Jeff
                            ©  Jeffrey Hill 2011