Snorkeling the City of Refuge

                          
   South of Kailua 

The City of Refuge

The North Shore of City of Refuge

   The City of Refuge is an ancient Hawaiian site that is run as a National Monument.  The story goes that under Polynesian Law a miscreant could make is way to the Pu’u Honua, spend a period of penance and return to society.  Mark Twain visited here.  With its old temple foundations and interesting artifacts, its worth a look.  The adjacent bay is a must for snorkelers. 

     Driving south from Kailua, one ascends to about 2500 feet and winds through the funky towns of Kainaliu and Kealakekua.  A mile after the charming Kealakekua Library, you will see an old Chevron Station on your left and on your right will be marked “Old Napoopoo Rd”.  This is clear on your drive guide.  The road winds steeply down ( past an old coffee company with delicious samples) to the village of Napo'opo'o.  One can rent a kayak here for a paddle on the bay.  We turn left and head across the lava rock chaparral  for about five miles to the City of Refuge.

A Swim with the Dolphins is possible at City.

   Just before the the National Park, turn right and pass through a small fishing village with a boat launch.  Park where possible and schlep your stuff to the picnic area.

    From the picnic tables look seaward and slightly to your left.  You should see a number of water oriented folk employing the “Two Step” entry.   On your way out you will note  a large tide pool to your left.  If  you have any doubts, ask if you are at the Two Step entry.   There are other places people use here, but this is the safest.  This is a good spot for gloves, if you have them.

     There are, in fact three flat lava surfaces ideal for getting in and out.  Sit on the middle step and put on your fins, then let a wave wash you into the sea.   This bay is so good that tour companies bring tourists here by van and boat.  You get it for free.

Thompson's Butterflyfish is a great addition to your list.

     We swim north along the shore (to your right) and wind around the cove seaward.  Thompson's Butterflyfish is common just seaward of the corner at the edge of the drop off.  Other good things await you on this north cusp. 

    Just to the right of the Two Step entry  and 30 yards out,  a dive company has written ALOHA on the bottom in cinder blocks in about 30 feet of water.  50 yards straight out from the entry are two lava reefs that reach almost to the surface.  The coral surrounding these islands is beautiful, deep and occasionally harbors something special  Coral death is  a worldwide problem,; the coral at City remains pretty good.  The fish are fantastic!  Black morph of the Longnose, Thompson’s Butterfly, Three Spot Damsel and Potter's Angelfish should be found with any luck.

Palenose Parrotfish at City

.    This is a place where you might swim with the dolphins.  When we arrive, we try to ask someone who looks alert if the dolphins are here, as they spend  time on the bottom resting before returning to the surface.   The dolphins often arrive about 10 AM and may stay several hours.  Look for them 50 to 100 yards out and to the right of Two Step.  I believe the dolphin pod comes about one out of four days to city.  We give them at least until noon to show up.  Remember that harassing marine mammals is against the law, so be respectful.

    Getting out,  you will find that third, submerged step.  Let it boost you up as you coordinate with an incoming swell.  Warm up on the rocks and have a picnic at your table.  Laid back Hawaii! 

Achilles Tang, City of Refuge August 2012

    There is a flock of temporary restrooms at City.  Real restrooms at the national park and showers at the county park in Napoopoo.  We take a 2L of water and let it warm in the sun on the lava while we swim.  On your way home you can stop at the sea wall in Napo'opo'o and look across the bay.

    The obelisk on the far shore  marks the spot where Captain Cook fell.  After reeflecting on the life of this most famous mariner, you can stop for a coffee up the hill.  Another good stop in this area is the Painted Church.  A must see for our tourist visitors, it is located up the newer road that leads south out of City.  Easily found on your drive guide.

    City of Refuge is a great place for looking at the fishes a picnic and just hanging out in a truly beautiful spot.

                                                                                                                                  © Jeffrey Hill 2011

Kona Makai on Dwellable