Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Two Great Reasons to go to Bali (Besides Fish)

   When John Hoover linked me up to his website he made me promise that this blog would mostly deal with
The Purnama Offering Parade
fish.  All in all, I have tried to honor that commitment.  When one is attempting to sell a really big trip to their friends and family, however, it is nice to have something to offer them besides just the opportunity to look at fish.  Or in some cases (as may be the situation with John and his charming wife) the better half may very well be interested in something other than fish.  In  Bali, there are several other things that may draw one there.  

    So before we leave Bali,  I wanted to mention some of the other things one might look forward to.   Many people go to Bali for other outdoor experiences, like climbing one of the major volcanoes...both Agung and Batur can be climbed either on your own or with a guide. Some people go birdwatching, but this being a relatively small island and fairly densely populated, there are not too many birds.

The Purnama Offering Parade
 Sandra and I have found two things in Bali that are truly unique and, perhaps as much as the many species of beautiful fish, these things draw us back. 

    The first is the Balinese people themselves and the way their lives revolve around the unique brand of Hinduism practiced only in Bali.  In the 8th century a Hindu monk made it from India to Bali and the religion has been evolving for one and a half millennia.  From dawn to dusk the Balinese place offerings of incense, rice and flowers at altars, on the walkways, at the beaches...just about anywhere you might imagine. 

        Although the Balinese may disagree, the most outward sign of this Hinduism is the community effort to
Legong Dancer, Ubud Palace
  insure reincarnation of the deceased members of the villages.  Around the island there are temples that draw villagers with symbolic remains of the recently departed.  These ceremonies are not necessarily sad gatherings.  After all, if they get it right the departed will rejoin the living. 

    Unlike some religions,  the Balinese are eager to have you participate in their rites.  On a previous trip we joined the people of a village as they made the hike up the mountain to Pura Lempuyang.  This year we were invited by a couple that ran a restaurant in Tulamben to accompany them to Purnama, the Hindu Full Moon Ceremony.  The entire village showed up and under the rising moon, the offerings were presented with some pageantry and then blessed by the priest.  As we sat listening to the priest, our hostess asked me if I was happy.  And I was!  It was an honor to participate with our hosts, but this isn't a rare experience.

Legong Dancer at Ubud Palace
If you show an interest, you will almost certainly find yourself in a sarong at some point.

    This year, for the second time, we went to Pura Lawah, otherwise known as the Bat Cave.  The Bat Cave is one of the seven directional temples.  This year there were literally thousands of Hindus celebrating while we were there.  Discreet photographs were allowed.  And who doesn't want to peer into the cave full of bats?  But to be honest, being at the temple and praying with the Hindus is a very spiritual experience. 

At least as good as seeing a new fish.

      The second thing I want to tell you about is the city of Ubud.  Ubud is an hour or two from DPS, the airport for the island in the metropolis of Denpassar.  Perhaps when you are planning a trip to Bali, you will think of Ubud as a place to do some shopping before heading home.  And there are some fantastic restaurants there, as well. But there is much more to Ubud than shopping. 
The Beautiful Sita Held Hostage by the Monkey Warriors

   Many people use it as a headquarters for outdoor activities like hiking. 

    My personal favorite is the dance programs put on around the city every night.  There are several varieties of these authentic dances, which are connected to the Balinese Hinduism.  The Legong Dance is my personal  favorite.  Beautiful dancers, richly costumed, perform for an hour or so.  Their hand and eye movements are unique to the legong. Often these dances are held outdoors in ancient temples and palaces.  I find it utterly intriguing.
    The other dance we enjoy is the Kecak dance.  A troop of men dressed as monkey warriors, chant for an hour while the actors put on an operatic play centered on the Ramayana, one of the central stories of their religeon.  At the end, a fire of coconut husks is ignited and a man in a trance rides his hobby horse through
The Fire Trance At an Ubud Temple
the fire repeatedly.   It does not get anymore exotic than the Kecak Dance and Fire Trance.  Admission for these dances was about 8 USD.  Unbelievable.

   Well, you have suffered through my descriptions of the beaches in the Amed area.  They are sufficiently intact that even someone like myself, snorkeling and unguided, was able to see over 250 species of reef fish in two weeks.  And you now have the information to keep the non-fishwatchers entertained. 

   Thank you for putting up with this decidedly un-fishy blog.  Sandra and I hope that there is a trip to the enchanted island of Bali in yur future.  When you get there, say hi to all our friends.

jeff
 

The Villain Rangaa is Found in All Legong Dances

Entering the Bat Cave temple

A Look at the Legong  in the Ubud Palace

Our Host, Wayan, and His nephew at Purnama

No comments:

Post a Comment