The Tradgedy of Jemeluk

   As we prepared for our last snorkeling outing in Bali, we walked down to the beach at Jemeluk about 3:30 in the afternoon.  And were greeted by an incredibly sad sight.  There on the gravel beach, about five feet

Spotfin Lionfish on the beach at Jemeluk

 from the water, was a dead lionfish. On the Blue Star Reef, I had enjoyed a single close encounter with each of the two lionfish species one might to expect to find here in the Amed area.  I could not help but wonder, was this the very Spotfin Lionfish I had seen two nights before?

    In a way, the dead lionfish was a metaphor for what is happening on the coast of Karangasem.  That is to say, massive development of the worst kind.  For some time now, throughout the world, anyplace special has fallen into the sights of developers.  It happened to Sisters, Oregon around 1995.  I was complaining about the track houses two blocks of the old main street and the condominiums rising into my view of the Three Sisters and my son said, "Dad!  What did you think was going to happen?"  He was only ten or so, but he delivered the wake up call loud and clear.  

Raggy Scorpionfish  S. venosa  Jemeluk  2014

    Since then, the pace has been inexorable.  When Sandra and I first came to the Amed area in  2008, there was only one lodging at Jemeluk, the Diver's Cafe on the western point.  Now there is solid development on the coastline for at least a mile.  This being Indonesia, it appears that little in the way of building regulation applies.  If you have a hammer, saw and some lumber, you can throw up a building anywhere and call it a homestay.  Iluh, the lady who operates Blue Star, sold the land for the adjacent Villa Coral, to fund the conversion of a Balinese compound into the property where we lodged.  Between Blue Star and Divers Cafe, there is now a chain of lodgings, slapped up apparently without regulation.

    It is difficult for the Balinese to believe that this sort of willy nilly development might not be permitted elsewhere in the world.  

Sea Fan  Bispira spp  Jemeluk 2014

     At any rate, this area that seemed so peaceful back in 2008 is radically changed.  Entering fromn the Diver's Cafe, we swam virtually alone in November of 2008 and 2009.  There is nothing quite so

Slender Grouper An. leucogrammicus  Jemeluk  2014

 pleasurable  as swimming among intact coral and looking at spectacular marine life all by yourself.  During this stay, we were never anywhere in Jemeluk Bay with out being in the company of other swimmers.  Frequently they were wearing tennis shoes, the better to stand upon and push off against the marine life.  We saw lots of broken coral.  Its really sad.

     So far though, it hasn't affected the fish and other marine life very much.  On this final evening swim, we saw three Raggedy Scorpionfish.  We had seen this species in Pemuteran in 2009, also in the evening.  Isn't he an ugly spud?  The unsightly scorpionfish was  followed in short order by a gorgeous violet fan worm...the first one of that group that I have seen. 

    At 4:30 there was already an obnoxious Aussie on the verandah of Diver's Cafe, yelling at the many swimmers.  Bizarre bordering on the surreal.  We said hello to the Slender Grouper, who was hunting actively over the reef . On our way to the beach we got a final peek at this Phyllidia nudibranch.

     all in all, we enjoyed our stay in Jemeluk.  We saw lots of marine animals, both fish and critters.  And we made lots of new friends among the staff and our fellow travelers at Blue Star.  The Amed area is still a snorkelers paradise and one that can be achieved on a budget.   However, development is progressing at a rapid rate and there are countless Australians and Europeans eager to come to these beaches for a bargain holiday.  So if you want to take advantage of this area (Jemeluk in particular) I would recommend that you come soon.