A Trip to Japanese Wreck

    Two days ago, Sandra and I took a trip to Japanese Wreck.  This is a dive site about three or four kilometers to the east.  It is named for a moderately sized fishing boat (presumably owned and operated by

Made and Crew   Lipah Bay, Bali

someone associated with the Land of the Rising Sun) that went ashore there sometime in the past.  The decaying hulk is home to a variety of marine plants, corals and sponges.  But it is the marine area surrounding the wreck, an area of rich coral growth which supports a slightly better variety of fish, that is the main attraction.  At least as far as we are concerned.  Back in 2009, on a memorable day, the Snorkelkids saw 11 (eleven!) species of angelfish at this location.  That has to be some sort of record and we had been looking forward to a return engagement.

     Up to now, the land owners in this vicinity have recognized the value of their reef and have protected the environment, maintaining this haven for marine animals.  In the last few years, up and down the coast of Karangasem, there has been a spate of new

Semicircle Angelfish  Japanese Wreck, Karangasem, Bali 2014

development.  Since we were here five years ago, the shore adjacent to  Japanese Wreck now supports four large bungalows that might host up to 30 guests.  The owners advertise to attract groups, like business retreats.  One does not need to be a PhD Marine biologist to appreciate that such development is likely not in the best interest of the coral.  Global warming/climate change is probably the leading cause of the world wide coral death that we have witnessed over the last fifteen years.   But pollution is clearly a major factor, especially at the local level.

    On the spur of the moment, while attempting to change some left over Australian dollars at the local currency exchange in Lipah, I struck up a

Scissortail Fusilier Japanese Wreck 2014

conversation with a group of young men taking their leisure in the morning sun.  This conversation culminated in my contracting with two stalwarts to ferry my beloved and myself from Bayu Cottages to Japanese Wreck on the back of their scooters.  Thus, the following morning, Made, who cuts quite the dashing figure, and Nyoman, the Shylock himself, pulled up to our car park overlooking the bay.  

    Now I’m sure you are saying to yourself, that Jeff is such a damn wimp.  Why couldn’t he drive his own damn scooter with Sandra perched behind?   In fact, the last time I was in Bali, I took scooter lessons.  My teacher and I even took a ride up into the hills on a little used road.  It was really neat.  However, at the end of the program I was only marginally competent.  Couple that with the quality of the road along the beach here in Amed and you would agree that piloting our own scooter  was clearly out of the question

Dwarf Hawkfish   Japanese Wreck  2014

   So Sandra and I each hopped on behind our drivers and off we went.  The beach road, the only road in this area, is one lane wide.  In spots, some joker has painted a white line down the middle.  It does not receive regular maintenance and there are lots of defects in the macadam.  With the ensuing development, the number of vehicles on this lone thoroughfare has increased exponentially.

     Our route required us to surmount and descend three modest capes.  As we went up and down and around corners our drivers swerved to avoid approaching cyclists, oncoming trucks and trucks parked on the road.  As we disembarked at Japanese Wreck, Sandra remarked that her ride had been quite exciting and she could not remember when she had been so terrified.  One must recall her extreme and amply verbalized anxiety when  I was driving on the wrong side in New South Wales only a year earlier to appreciate the depth of her concern.

Parrotfins  (Its what parrotfish wear snorkeling. You should see their masks!)

 Never the less, we were safe and sound and descended to the beach, which here at Japanese Wreck is stones just smaller than a baseball.  Similar to the shingle beach at Napoopoo on Kealakekua Bay.  In years past, these larger stones extended into the water, but there was now a steep gravel shore.  Perhaps because of this alteration, the water near the shore was muddy. 

         Clearing the cloudy water, we headed west, toward the point.  This area of rich coral growth was pretty much intact and yielded a couple new fish for our list.  A large semicircle Angelfish permitted an approach close enough for a picture.  We also added Spot Tailed and Yellow Dotted Butterflyfish, along with our long time pal the Raccoon.   Also in this location, we nabbed our second  fusilier, the Scissortail.

A Second Look At the Amazing Dwarf Hawkfish.

      It was cloudy around the wreck and further along, the coral seemed a bit depleted.  We saw several anemones, but no anemone fish.  As we headed back toward the entrance we were feeling  a bit low.  Stopping by the wreck, I noticed a tiny fish scooting around a sand patch in about five feet of water.  He was no bigger than a modestly sized cockroach, and he graciously permitted me several pictures.  


   Finally, back in the area of rich coral growth, hiding in a crevice, I caught a glimpse of the Six Striped Soapfish.  Only my second peek at this elusive, small grouper.

Greetings From Bali   Photo by SKG

  As we were getting out, six young yuppie-looking divers were entering.  Back ashore we were amid a throng that seemed to be having a get together in a spot where, on previous visits, we had seen only a few patient Balinese.  While waiting for our ride, we took a quick look at the pictures.  Happily, we discovered a beautiful shot of what looked to be a tiny dragonet.   Later on, perusing  Reef Fish Identification/ Tropical Pacific by Gerald Allen, et al. I was not able to find the little fellow.  Yesterday I submitted my photos to Jack Randall who quickly replied that we had a Dwarf Hawkfish.  I’m proud to say that our picture is so much better than the one in the book that our inability to come up with the diagnosis is understandable. 

  
     I hope you enjoy the pictures and Sandra and I wish you were here with us to enjoy these wonderful fishes and the hospitable folk of Karangasem.

jeff