A Good Morning at Kawaihae Harbor

Orange Stylinos Sponge, Kawaihae March 2025

   A couple days ago Sandra and I returned to Kawaihae on a sunny morning.  We had met with Peter and Marla a month ago, and they said a trip to Kawaihae provided three species of nudibranchs and fair water quality.  

    We had planned to go to Mahu Kona, another fifteen miles further north, but the tide was very low, and the wind was predicted to be ferocious.   This has been the situation on numerous occasions lately, causing us to swim somewhere else.   As we arrived at the harbor, there were two older girls with snorkel masks collecting shells.  the girls said the water was clear, although they also said they had never noticed it to be green, so we charged ahead.   

   As it turned out, the water was cool (as opposed to freezing) and only a little green.  At worst the visibility was about eight feet.  The first platform had little to offer.  The second platform provided a single Trembling Nudibranch.  He was about eight feet down, so I dove a few times and got one picture that isn't terrible.  

Orange and blue sponges

   What was encouraging was that we saw a lot more fouling organisms on the pilings, including several kinds of sponges, which I am showing you here, At least two species of hydroids were present.  This included a group of very large hydroids that John Hoover calls Christmas Tree.  I didn't know that species got so large.  

     

Christmas Tree hydroids and Snowflake Coral (lower left)

   Towards the end of our snorkel, we both saw a clump that looked like a tangle of pinkish yarn that I was sure was an animal.  I did what I could with the pictures and sent them along to John Hoover, calling it a Curious Tangle.  He replied that he thought it was Polybranchia jensennae, which is a sort of nudibranch.  Personally, I can't find the nudibranch in this mess.  Perhaps one of you will have an idea.  Or perhaps like our new ober fuhrer, Herr Musk, I need to be taking Ketamine to improve my perception.

    So the good news is that there is stuff growing on the pylons, including a variety of intriguing invertebrates.  And the shower in the park is still warm and perhaps the most scenic ablution on the planet.

jeff

   

Curious Tangle..is it a nudibranch?

A Signature Day at Kahalu'u

Whitemouth Moray, Kahalu'u March 2025

    Yesterday the winter swell all but disappeared.  Just like that it was time to venture to Kahalu'u for some well-deserved fish watching.  We arrived at 9 AM.  From the road the bay looked flat as a protected pond.  What could be better?

    A few other fish watchers had noticed the improved conditions and so even at this early hour there were a few other people in the shelter getting ready to swim.  As I was making my final adjustments I overheard a youngish (for an old goat, that means the early 40s) Reef Teacher stating to a novice that the day before she had seen over 100 species.  Suffice it to say that in the words of Country Joe and the Fish, my nose went up like an infield fly.  And I gave her a more discerning look.  She was thin, wearing a wet suit in spite of the fact that she was clearly not going swimming anytime soon, and had a look about her that warned of an attitude.  So I muttered, "Really!" under my breath and headed to the water.

Christmas Tree Worms, Kahalu'u 2025

   At this hour it was a very low tide and I had to boost myself over the rocks in the channel where it was only a few inches deep.  But I made it and I was soon swimming in cool water virtually free of current.  As I made it out to the coral, I saw a Whitemouth Moray sticking his neck out of a small hole in a coral.  This has been a season of few eels, so getting a look at this pedestrian species was a bit of a treat.  He tried to scare me off by bearing his fangs and then slunk back into his crevice with a look that said, "Can't you just wander off and leave me in peace?" 

   I then swam over near the breakwater, admiring some pretty nice Evermann's coral.  Back in the day this species was a mainstay here in Kona, and it was heartening to see some healthy specimens.  One patch was home to handsome Christmas Tree worms.  It's one thing to take a picture of an eel, a relatively large animal, but quite another to get a quality photograph of something small.  Until this day we had not had a truly currentless day at Kahalu'u, or anywhere else.  

Calcinus latens bids you a Happy Easter.  Good luck finding eggs!

   Determined to take advantage, we got this nice shot of the Christmas Tree worms.  Like the moray, these worms should not be terribly unusual, but the times they are a changing and it requires some healthy coral to support this species,  

   Nearby there was a small fireworm out on patrol.  I got his picture, too.  And as I did, I said to myself, "maybe this will be be a day for invertebrates."  And a day well overdue, at that.  As I made my way back towards the middle, I saw a larger fireworm.  Hanging on to the coral by his incendiary tail, he was waving his head in the water like a traffic cop directing me onward.  

    Making the turn up the middle I encountered a small hermit crab that was just itching to have his picture taken.  One cannot say too much in favor of clear, still water when it come s to getting a good shot of very small things.  Or, it's almost impossible to hold a camera still when you're getting sloshed around. 

Haig's Hermit Crab.  Kahalu'u 2025

   So here we see a nice picture of Calcinus latens, the Hidden Hermit Crab.  This guy was about an inch long and one has to give a lot of credit to the Olympus TG5 for getting the tiny critter in focus.  The crab was actually holding on sideways to the coral, but my lovely editor insisted that if we rotated the picture 90 degrees to the right it would make a better Christmas card.  I leave it up to Cousin Don to put a Santa hat on this guy.  To be liturgically correct, I suppose it should be an Easter card, but who ever heard of crucifying a hermit crab?  I suppose I could have caught him and put him in a Faberge Egg.  But, it being the season, all my Faberge Eggs are Lent.   

    Further up the middle I saw another hermit, even smaller than the one before.  As I was free to make fine manipulations, not being sloshed hither and yon, I was able to nab him and place his shell aperture up on the coral.  This maneuver gives the photographer an extra few seconds as the crab emerges (hopefully) and proceeds to do whatever it is that hermits do.  

Will the last Achilles Tang in Kona please turn out the lights?

   If it was Peter the Hermit, he would rouse the rabble, start a crusade and sack some convenient outpost full of obnoxious rich people.  In this case, I would vote for Mar a Lago. 

    But this wasn't Peter the Hermit. Nooo!  Look at those purple legs (Go Huskies).  This was Haig's Hermit Crab.  Unless my memory fails, which in my dotage is always a possibility, I have seen this handsome fellow at K Bay at least one time before.  Our first encounter with this species was on the wave swept rocks in front of Kona Shores, quite a different habitat from this peaceful bay.  

    Although I continued to search assiduously, this was to be the last worthy invertebrate of the day.  But fear not, there were a few fishies that demand your attention. 

Stareye Parrot at the Cleaner Wrasse Spa, Kahalu'u 2025

    A ways on, I encountered an adolescent Achilles Tang.  A few years ago, this would not have made the blog.  But this iconic fish is now endangered to the extent that spear fishermen are supposedly prohibited from taking them.  Enforcement for such infractions, in my experience is fairly loose here in the land of swaying palms and the Mai Tai, so I hope that the fishermen are following the rules.  In numerous snorkels out on Paul Allen's Reef, which should be great habitat for this fish, I have not seen a single individual.  And so, this handsome fellow captured on this pristine, calm day, makes the blog.  At least there is one Achiles Tang left in Kona!

    Heading towards the Rescue Kiosk, I wandered into a thriving patch of Evermann's Coral and spotted a cleaning station.  As I arrived, an Orangespine Unicorn Tang was being serviced by a fine adult cleaner wrasse.  He swam off and was replaced by, of all things, a Coronetfish.  By this time, I had the camera out and who should swim in but a fine male Stareye Parrot.  There is something about getting cleaned that sends some fish into total ecstasy.  Just look at the way this big brute totally loses it and flops helplessly on his side while getting his parasites nibbled.  One is disposed to say that for the parrotfish this is better than sex. 

The Barred Spiny Puffer, Diodon Holocanthus, K Bay 2025

     So who do I think I am, the Dr, Phil of ichthyology?

    A short distance on, I ran across our friend from early in the season, the Diodon holocanthus, or barred spiny puffer.  In the interim, I have re-booted the camera, so it is taking better pictures and, of course, the conditions were perfecto.  So here you get a great look at an unusual puffer that is apparently being seen regularly in K Bay this winter. 

    My swim continued along the rocky shore beneath the Rescue Shelter.  This is a good place for Christmas Wrasse and octopus, neither of which made an appearance. It's also a good place for Pearl Wrasse and there were two large females in attendance. This fish has moved up in the standings to the point where, despite its undeniable beauty, it is heading into dirt fish territory.  You guys have seen plenty of Pearl Wrasse pictures.  

On the 4th day of Lent my Tutu gave to me...

    Once upon a time I saw a Leaf Scorpionfish among those rocks, so I always give them a careful look, but on this day to no avail.

   As I approached the two nautical orange buoys that the Reef Teachers hope will remind people not to walk on the bottom (might as well wish for a million dollars), I realized that I had some time remaining on the meter and so made another turn out into the bay.  Out in the middle, I was rewarded with an intact coral now home to four Hawaiian Dascyllus.  

    We see these keikis in K Bay occasionally, but usually only one or two at a time.  So this was a nice group and may be another indicator, along with the rejuvenating coral, that the water quality is improving.  I took a slew of pictures of this group and none of them turned out all that nice.  With small objects at a distance the camera has trouble deciding what to focus on.  

The underated Ambon Toby, Kahalu'u 2025

     I also took a movie, which shows the four little darlings swimming about.  The movie is in focus, but Google says it is too big to transmit, and I am too incompetent to do anything about the size.  I also have a movie of the Diodon holocanthus,  which show the swimming fish to great advantage.  Same problem, too big to transmit.   C'est domage, 

   Perhaps the next time I see you I can show you the movies on my cell phone.  Until then, you are stuck with the best of a poor lot, but with the happy knowledge that the baby dascyllus are alive and well.  

   As I made the turn for home I had one final treat in store.  The Ambon Toby is a common fish; I see it virtually every time out on the reef.  And, as you see here, it has a remarkable beauty when you can catch it to its best advantage. Luckily, I passed over a coral with a toby inside.  The light was good, and the fish was relaxed.  Using my flash to augment the iridescent blue face markings and flank spots, I captured the two pictures I'm leaving you with.  My lovely young editor is especially enamored with the peek a boo look from behind the coral.

Peek a boo Toby

   As I made my exit, I found that the tide was coming in and the water was about an inch deeper that when I began my odyssey, and this made a big difference in the boosting and scraping. 

   Ashore, I was greeted by my tutu and the indefatigable Kathleen Clarke, Queen of the Reef Teachers.  I was able to regale my audience with the Haig's Hermit Crab.  Kathleen is very knowledgeable about what is seen in her little piece of heaven, but she was not familiar with Haig's, so that was a small triumph.

    There was a lady of a certain age who joined our group.  She commented that she had the same camera as I but hadn't used it in three years.  She was impressed with the picture of the tiny Haig's hermit and asked how I did it.  What do you say?  First bring you camera into the water...  or  I could tell you but then I'd have to kill you.  (Maverick in the first Top Gun movie.)  

   She was also interested in the D. holocanthus. which we had apparently seen together.  At this point Kathleen chimed in to say that in addition to the one we saw, a smaller one is being seen occasionally in K Bay.  Now that's good news.

   It was time to take my shower and Kathleen walked with me.  As we strolled, she revealed that on her surveys she usually sees around 44 species, with her record for the season being 65.  So much for that over 100 species baloney!

    Realizing where we were going, she pointed out that the showers were out of service.  Curiously the showers at Kahalu'u went dry just as the ones at the pier resumed function.  The foot washing station, with its three faucets, is still available and I joined the mob there to rinse my equipment.  It occurs to me that if one were so disposed, he could bring an empty two liter, fill it for his own shower and then offer to dump water on salty bathing beauties in need of a rinse. 

    (I have a special friend who would be disappointed if I didn't include a little bit of piggish behavior.)

Well, this was a long blog and I hope you enjoyed the pictures.  And if you're going to Kahalu'u, remember your empty two liter.

jeff

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The Kailua Pier has Restored Facilities

The usual suspects is what's on the menu.

    The good news for those of us who live in Kailua Kona and enjoy swimming and snorkeling is that the showers and changing rooms at the Kailua Pier have been restored to full working order.  It seems to have taken three months to set things right, but the hazard tapes and barricades have been removed and one is invited to take a refreshing shower after his or her swim.  The changing facilities are fully restored, as well.  

    The winter swell continues unabated, so my snorkeling has been confined to the pier.  Even on days when a cruise ship is in, there are never too many people on the hotel beach and the water has been acceptably clear.  If you are coming off the cruise ship and want to go snorkeling, see the usual suspects for this area, the pier is now a clean, convenient and safe option.  I recommend it!

   There have been no extraordinary sightings these last few weeks.  However, the usual group of fish 

we have are handsome and the coral appears no less depleted than usual, with a couple handsome meandrinas in the area just outside Paul Allen's lagoon.  Sadly, no amount of searching in these handsome branching corals has produced a speckled scorpionfish or a coral croucher.  And so, like that little freckled hawkfih, we are waiting for something tasty to come along.  With luck, our patience will be rewarded!

jeff

Sandra's Night Heron and a Filefish at Kahalu'u

       A few days ago, just before the big wind storm, the swell came down, the surfers put away their boards and we headed to Kahalu'u for a morning swim.  It was early, the tide was just high enough for an easy entry and I was soon in the water.  Sandra stayed behind to monitor the tourists and kibbitz with the reef teachers.

The southbound end of a batted filefish. 

   Considering everything, the cool winter weather and the persistent high surf, conditions were pretty good.  The water wasn't freezing and the current was manageable.  Early on I enjoyed a convocation of long spined black sea urchins.  It never ceases to amaze me how mobile these unusual animals can be.  Often they are attached to rocks or coral in a loose distribution, but sometimes they come out and get together, perhaps for breeding, but possibly they just enjoy each other's company.  

    On this day there were several young pearl wrasse in the mix, and I had some fun chasing them, trying to catch one of these elusive children with the camera.  The highlight, such as it was, was an adolescent Barred Filefish.  The Barred filefish comes in three flavors.   The juveniles are dark with white spots, the adults are much larger, a dark gray, resembling, to some extent, the lid of a tin garbage can.  The intermediate form is with a dramatic yellow tail.  

   The latter was what I found way out past the rescue shelter.  Like the wrasses, she was a rapid swimmer, but her yellow tail was so attractive that I devoted a bit of time trying for a picture.  I managed to get some pretty good pictures of the tail...the southbound end of a northbound filefish, but I never got a great profile photograph.

     As I came ashore, I was greeted by my beloved who had found a bird.  It was nearby on the reef and as we walked over to it, Sandra explained that it was quite a puzzle because it wasn't in the book. The book is Hawaii's Birds, published by the Hawaii Audubon Society.  This is a small paperback that found its way into the reef teacher's collection. If you want a good guide to the birds you see at the beach, any of the North American field guides are superior to this book. 

    The bird was easy, it was a juvenile Black Crowned Night Heron.  One sees this species occasionally at the beach, but usually in the adult form...a stately black head with a crest, a pure white bib and pearly breast.  The juvenile is streaked and looks much like a bitttern, which lives in marshes and is not found in Hawaii.  

Black Crowned Night Heron, juvenile  January 2025

    "Ontogeny recapitulates phylogeny," I intoned as we walked into the shelter.  I would like to report that I was surrounded by a gaggle of bathing beauties bursting from their bikinis as I explained that juvenile animals of many an ilk look like a common ancestor.  The Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse, for example, bears a single blue streak like its ancestor, that still thrives in the Western Pacific, the cradle of the reef.  Alas, Horatio, there were no voluptuous maidens to absorb these pearls of wisdom, just one stern looking reef teacher who looked like she might cold cock me if I got out of line.

   While I was showering, Sandra showed her excellent picture to our friend Yasuko.  She admired Sandra's handiwork and said, "Ahhh.  Io!"  My lovely wife knew that this was definitely not a Hawaiian Hawk, but in the name of Japanese-American relations she let it slide.  We need to keep the Japanese on our side or they might put a 15% tariff on sushi...right?

   And that's life from the beach...

jeff

A Kawaihae (not so happy) Update

     This week Sandra and I took a trip up to Kawaihae Harbor.  Due primary to sloth, this was our first venture to what had been one of our favorite snorkeling spots, certainly the one where we were most likely to see unusual invertebrates.

The Waikoloa goats were numerous and unafraid.

   Our first stop was the green waste depository at Waikoloa.  We approached the spot where we dump plants to find no people, but plenty of goats. There have always been goats, but this time they were more plentiful and didn't seem as wary of humans as one might hope.   Not knowing the Spanish word for goat, I shooed them away yelling, "Vaca, vaca."    They moved a remarkably short distance away and viewed me menacingly while I unloaded. 

   Having dispensed with our excess plant life and survived our goat encounter we headed up to Kawaihae.  As we entered the harbor complex, the first thing we noticed was the road to the small boat moorage that you encounter immediately after leaving the highway is closed.  This was of some concern, as this has always been the road to the restrooms, as well as the small boats.  When we reached the surf park, the mystery was solved.  Thay had abandoned that nice road into the moorage and directed all the traffic through the surf park.  Once equipped with this knowledge, it actually saves a little time if you need to access the facilities before or after swimming.  

Alas ,poor nudibranch.  I knew him, Horatio. A mollusk of infinite jest

   Soon we were dressed in our long suits, the better to swim among the cement pilings.  Once in the water, however, our expectations changed dramatically.  In the past, the water had been varying degrees of cloudy, based on the amount of sand and plankton on a given day.  Today the water was full of green algae to an extent that visibility was literally four feet.  Two years ago, we encountered a raft of floating wood chips, but we have never before seen algae.  As algae in such situations is often indicative of a sewage leak, this was extremely concerning. 

   We soldiered on, swimming around the first two platforms.  The visibility never improved.  As far as we could tell the variety of organisms was markedly reduced.  Although I have been taught that it is impossible to name the species of a sponge except in the lab, in the past we have seen black sponges and at least two types of orange sponges and light blue sponges.  On this day we saw a few minimal patches of orange sponge and nothing else.  No nudibranchs (some of which rely on the sponges for their daily bread), no feather duster worms, no shrimp and no hydras.  There were some sea cucumbers and few baby Dascyllus playing among the remaining cauliflower coral.  But compared to our previous experiences, this was an ecological disaster. 

White Saddle Goatfish, Kona, 2018

   Next to the breakwater, near the LST ramp, we spied a white saddle goatfish.  This is a rare fish in Kona and is reputed to be the most delicious of goatfishes.  He was a handsome fellow, swimming rapidly around the rip rap.  We saw some milletseed butterflies and a black tail snapper.  That was about it for noteworthy fish.

   The ramp into the ocean, fronting the surf park remains.  And the seaside shower with its view of Mauan Kea is still magnificent, as showers go.  But the ecological wonder of Kawaihae Harbor is apparently lost, at least for the time being. As Sandra and I were walking from the park to the harbor we were passed by a lifeguard in a truck pulling a trailer with a jet ski.   Given our get up, it was obvious that we were going swimming, and he didn't tell us that the beach was closed, so I assume the authorities are cool with people swimming here despite the water quality.  Sadly, if you want to see nudibranchs, colorful sponges and feather duster worms, that ship has sailed.

Sadly submitted,

jeff