The Fishes of Tulamben and The Ceremony of the Full Moon (Purnama)

    Sandra and I have been very busy during our stay at Tulamben.  We went snorkeling on consecutive days.   The first day, the water was fairly flat.  The second, yesterday, there was a substantial amount of

False Clown Anemonefish, Tulamben 2014

 chop.  There was one unifying feature, however.  On both days there was a substantial amount of current over the Coral Garden.   This wasn't a danger, as all it was doing was pushing us back the way we came.  But it was exhausting.  

     When we weren't fighting the sea, we saw some pretty good fish.  We have increased the number of anemonefish to four.  Yesterday, with Canon D 10, we got acceptable pictures of the skunk and the false clown.  Clarke's Anemonefish is difficult to photograph, as every time I try to approach an adult, he turns to face me.  Hence, I have ended up with too many pictures of the anemonefish's nose. 

     The big find over the last two days was a Leaf Scorpionfish.  Although he was in about twenty feet of water, the fish was bright yellow and fairly easy to spot.  Getting down to him to take a picture was another matter.  At that depth, all I can do is dive and get one shot before I am rising like a damn cork. 

Skunk Anemonefish  Tulamben  2014

  Aside from being a very interesting fish, this species was important to me personally because I missed it the last time here. 

  Sandra and I took a snorkeling tour from Permuteran to Menjangen Island.   Several people on the boat (including sandra) saw a Leaf Scorpionfish, but I was off looking at something else and missed my chance.  It wasn't until we were back on the boat that I got the full explanation and realized what I had missed.  Any bird watcher worth his salt will tell you that such an experience puts a species high up on the old  wish list.

     Towards the end of yesterday's swim, we saw a pair of Pennant Bannerfish, our third Heniochus for the trip.  This was in an area of substantial current

 which posed a bit of a problem for photography.  We used good team work, though, and eventually got the shot.  Go Huskies! (Who, I am told, are not thriving in our absence.)

    From the standpoint of invertebrates, we have enjoyed a variety of crinoids, a puffy green zoanthid and some curious serpentine sponges.  The big find was a a nice big cushion star.  Unlike the fish, he held nice and still to get his picture taken.

    The social side of our trip has been every bit as interesting as the fish watching.  Our new friends Wayan and Wayan,  the Balinese restaurateurs, were super nice and invited us to accompany them to the Full Moon  Ceremony at the local temple.  They added critical pieces of couture to our make shift

outfits.  Wayan even crowned me with one of his spare udengs.  In all modesty, I must say that we were the best looking Hau'oli's at the Moon Ceremony.

    We didn't really know what to expect.  I was hoping that a legong dance would break out, but that was a pipe dream.  As it turned out, the critical religious reason for this part of  the Purnama moon ceremony (it had been going on for three nights) involved families bringing offerings to be blessed by the priest.  These would then be retrieved, taken home and imbue the family with good fortune.

     As we arrived, a large number of what I assume where lower caste Hindus were seated on the ground just outside the temple complex.  It is said of Bali Hinduism that there are only three castes: a tiny number of brahmins and Priests and a vast majority of the third, lower caste.  Our experience at the ceremony would suggest that this is not entirely accurate.

    We waited for about fifteen minutes, admiring the tall bamboo penjur that graced the temple gate.  To one side were stacked  the temple accoutrements...a large number of tall umbrellas, employed in the shading of the sacred bones, some ornamental spears and a few gilded arcs.  At the propitious moment, Wayan harkened to a silent dog whistle that only the matriarch can hear and she said, "Come, it is time for us to go in."

Two Hindus Ready for the Moon Dance

     Inside, there was a large area with more people and two pavillions, a gamelan band taking up the one at the west end.  They sere hammering away on the their bells and drums with such abamdon that I could barely make out the Van Morrison melody.  Wayan took us up to the inner temple where people were making their offerings.

      Back in the first complex, we discovered that flash pictures were permitted.  This was just in time, as the main show involved a parade that wound through the upper and lower temples.  Participants dressed in a variety of flashy clothing wound through the temple at a brish pace.  Some carried gilded arcs, others military flags (The central text of this brand of Hinduism involves an epic battle...you see statues relating to this battle everywhere in Bali), and a variety of offerings.

     After the parade we all settled down in the central courtyard and listened to the priest's blessing  After a while this changed in character, more like a fatherly sermon.  By his tone, I thought the priest was including

 humorous aphorisms, although no one laughed.  Wayan smiled at me and said, "Are you happy?"  I asserted that I was...and it was true.  The other Wayan held his nephew in his lap and fed him a small container of applesauce.  and above all, the full moon broke free of the clouds and rose above the temple. What a special moment  The people were enjoying their community in a unique and intimate way.   As the sermon went on and on, Wayan asked if we would like to go home and her husband was dispatched to ferry us back to the Liberty Dive Resort.  It was a wonderful evening that we will always remember.
jeff

Its a Wonderful Night for a Moon Dance.